This looks exciting! I'm usually not a DIYer, but (1) I've always wanted to be, and (2) I'm being forced to if I want more than beds in my children's rooms.
I found a how-to article on Martha Stewart's website, and I think I can do this! I've been wanting a shelf like this for years now–the equivalent is over $100 at Pottery Barn, and Martha's is larger. Read how to make it below!
A ready-made plate rack can be easily transformed into a child's bookshelf, displaying both toys and children's books. You can also make your own shelves; just have all the wood cut to size at a lumberyard.
Tools and Materials Tape measure, Plate rack, Anchors and screws, Cordless drill, L-shape brackets
1. Decide at what level you want the plate rack to hang. Measure from the top of the baseboard, making sure it's level, and mark the wall. Attach one mount to the top of each side of the plate rack. (Martha uses keyhole mounts; consult your local hardware store for the anchors and screws appropriate for your walls.) Drill holes into the wall, and insert anchors. Using a cordless drill, drill screws 1/4 inch in.
2. Hang rack on screws, one side at a time. Secure the bottom of the rack beneath the bottom shelf with one L-shape bracket on each side; screw them in.
Bookshelves How-To 2 pieces lumber, each 3/4 by 3 by 50 inches, for shelf sides, 5 pieces lumber, each 3/4 by 2 3/4 by 39 inches, for shelves, 5 pieces lumber, each 40 1/2 inches, for shelf edging, 4 pieces lumber, each 39 inches, for railing3/4-inch brads, Primer and paint, Tape measure, Pencil, Compass, Jigsaw, 100-, 120-, and 220-grit sandpaper, 2 C-clamps, Combination square, Cordless drill with 1/16- and 3/8-inch drill bits and countersinking bit, 10 wood screws, Wood glue, Phillips-head screwdriver, Nail set, Hammer, Wood putty, Putty knife, Semigloss paint
1. Have all of the lumber cut to size. (Martha likes to use poplar because it's free of knots and imperfections, but pine works well as long as there are only a few knots.) Prime and paint all of the pieces; let dry.
2. Select the two longest pieces; these will be the vertical sides of the shelf, or the shelf supports. Mark the wood 3 1/4 inch from one end, and designate this as the top. For a rounded top, place the point of the compass on this mark, and make an arc that sweeps from the top edge to the end. Using the jigsaw, cut close to the line, and remove the corner. Sand out the kerf marks left by the saw with 100-grit sandpaper. Lay this piece on top of the other piece to act as a template, and draw the other arc. Cut the new shelf side, and sand. You now have the two sides of your shelf.
3. To install the shelves, clamp the two arched sides together so that the shelf supports are flush with each other. The arc should be facing forward. Work from the bottom up. The bottom shelf will be screwed flush with the bottom of the shelf sides. Using a tape measure and pencil, make a mark 3/8 inch up from the bottom edge. Extend the line across the side with a combination square. Continue to mark off all the shelves in the same way.
4. The next shelf will be placed 7 inches from the top of the bottom shelf. Again, use the tape measure, pencil, and the combination square to mark this placement. For each shelf, draw two lines on the shelf support: one for the bottom edge of the shelf, and one for the center, 3/8 inch up from this initial mark. Continue this process up the shelf supports at the following increments: 18 and 18 3/8 inches, and 40 1/2 and 40 7/8 inches. The result will be five shelves spaced 7, 9 1/2, 9 1/2, and 11 1/2 inches apart.
5. With the pieces still clamped together, pre-drill holes for the shelf screws. Find the centerline of each shelf by marking 3/8 inch up from the bottom of each shelf. Drill holes 3/4 inch from each side of the shelf support. Once all the holes are made, take the countersink bit, and countersink each hole. The countersink should be the same diameter as the screw head.
6. Starting at the bottom shelf, spread a small amount of wood glue on the ends of the shelf. Place it at the bottom end of the shelf supports. Make certain that it is flush with the back and bottom of the support sides, leaving space at the front of the shelf for the trim. Screw the shelves tightly into place with a Phillips-head drill bit and a Phillips-head wood screw. Move to the next shelf. Using the square, make sure that each shelf is perpendicular and horizontal. Clean up any glue with water before it dries. Make sure that all the screw heads are sunk below the surface of the wood and that the shelves are tight to the sides.
7. To add the shelf-edge moldings, tack the brads at 4-inch intervals along the molding before attaching them. Put a small amount of wood glue on the back of the molding, and align it to the shelf face. Drive the brads into the shelf, leaving about a 1/4 inch of the brad from the surface. Don't drive the brad flush because the hammer will damage the molding. Use the nail set to drive the brad just below the surface. Repeat this process for all the shelves.
8. The remainder of the molding forms the rail for each shelf. Measure 3 1/2 inches up from the top of each shelf, and make a mark. Measure from both sides to ensure that it is level. Glue and nail in place.
9. To mount the shelves on the wall, turn the shelf over so that you are looking at the back side (the side that will face the wall). Measure 2 inches down from the top on each shelf support, and make a mark with a pencil on the center roughly 3/8 inch from either side. Using the 3/8-inch drill bit, make a hole in each side about 1/2 inch deep; these holes are made for the nails that will hang the shelves.
10. Fill all the brad and screw holes with wood putty, using a putty knife. Sand these bumps with 120-grit paper until they are flush with the wood. Sand entire surface of the shelves lightly with 220-grit paper, and prime. When the primer is dry, lightly sand again, and paint with two coats of semigloss paint.